My car still has the rubber gasket around the hatch opening and that's what the hatch is pressing down on. I'm running a pretty good sized aluminum spoiler (as seen in the pitcures) on the CF hatch and I've had no issue. The rear hatch I sell (built by Benchmark Composites) has a full inner frame whether its made from CF or fiberglass. And taking weight out of the top of the car helps it transition better. A hood with the inner frame let's you avoid this but using the stock attachment hardware adds back some of the weight you're trying to eliminate.īut, CF hoods they are pretty damn cool and you think that every time you pick it up to put it back on the car. They also tend to "fly" with any kind of good breeze if you set them down in a windy spot. Pinned on hoods need to be put somewhere when you're working on the car. CF hoods are strong, but they still lose to a 2,000 lb steel vehicle.Īlso, CF and fiberglass hoods can be a pain for maintenance. Also, if a racer does a lot of wheel-to-wheel in a series that turns a blind eye to contact on the track, fiberglass parts are probably a better solution. A fiberglass hood will work just fine for that application and give the racer 80% of the benefits. Does it make sense for someone racing a $5,000 240Z to spend 10%+ of the vehicle's worth on a CF hood? Probably not. It also adds to the time it takes to make the hood and requires bagging and 24 to 30 hours of curing time. But they also tend to be fragile and can warp or move over time.Īdding some kind of honeycomb core and reinforced mounting points makes a hood considerably stronger without adding much weight. Ignoring fiberglass hoods that have a layer of CF over a fberglass core (I don't consider these CF hoods), making a hood out of two or three layers of CF cloth does create a very light hood. What's "cheap" is how some CF parts are made. Actually, there's no such thing as "cheap" carbon fiber - prices have started to increase again for some types.
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